Queans review

Guardian Guide 2007
Starched white tablecloths and muted decor suggest stuffy fine dining, but this new venture proves anything but. Chef/owner Laura Hamilton serves super-local modern British fare in a atmosphere that feels more like her home: she regularly dashes out of the kitchen to banter with diners and ply them with vast plates of fruit and cheese.

Standby for some inspired pairings: venison with marmalade, apricot with pumpkin and pork with whisky cream. For starters try the chunky pan-fried king prawns with sweet chilli and lemon and orange dressing – served on a springy bed of pea shoots, rocket and purple basil.

The lamb tenderloin is a joy – light, pink-in-the-middle cuts with garlic and red onion couscous – reaching heights that the guinea fowl with spicy lentils and brandy gravy, although accomplished, just can't quite muster. Finish with a homemade ice cream – there are 18 full-cream options – and crawl home on your hands and knees.

15 Dormer Place, Warwickshire
Tel: 01926 315522
price per head – £28