jonathanmlee on Jun 1, 2016
Jonathan M Lee
Journalist, author and broadcaster
jonathanmlee on Jun 1, 2016
Rockfish Seafood & Chips, Dartmouth
Curious goings-on in Devon’s oodie capital: beleaguered celeb chef John Burton Race has left his Michelin-starred New Angel, while the Wheelhouse chippie has burnt to a crisp in a freak fire. A wider berth then for Mitch Tonks’ new seafood diner, situated beside the sparkling river Dart. The décor is ritzy beach hut — driftwood-style timbers, teak decking seat backs and snaps of Tonks’ kids at play — while the fare is just-whipped-out-the-sea fresh and served in a box. Try a glass of Sahara-dry house cava and a handful of perky cockles before the whiting fillet, almost floating off the table in its light batter carapace, with firm Maris Piper chips. Braver sorts should tackle the whole cracked crab — complete with tools. Go out with a bang with a Knickerbocker Glory, a cheery tower of whipped cream and strawberries, a dollop of ‘cream tea’ ice cream infusing tinges of jam and scone.
Published: 2010
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The Warren House Inn, Dartmoor
Why it makes the grade
Set amid miles of Dartmoor wilderness, this rustic inn is a magnet for walkers and would-be Heathcliffs. England’s third-highest pub boasts settles aplenty and a fire that hasn’t gone out since 1845. The clincher, to quote the landlord, is “the biggest beer garden in the world”. Across the road, picnic tables offer sweeping views of wind-blown heather, granite tors and slithers of woodland.
Signature fare
Local ales are in abundance: try a pint of the fruity Otter Ale (£3.10) or the Summerskills (£3.60). On food, stick to staples such as cheese ploughman’s (£6.75) or jacket spuds (£4.95-£6.50).
We love the landlord because …
He’ll happily point novice walkers in the right direction. Head east for a two-hour circular romp via Challacombe Down, taking in disused tin mines and the bronze age settlement of Grimspound, featured in The Hound of the Baskervilles.
Meet the locals
Hardy types rub along with families, tourists and the occasional archaeologist.
Pub trivia
The pub is said to be haunted by a landlord who shot himself in 1926. Noel Fielding and Julian Barratt (aka The Mighty Boosh) were so spooked that they hotfooted it from the premises – not before sampling a cream tea though.
Published: 2009
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The Hop Pole, Bath
Why it makes the grade
This pub has one foot in the 21st century and the other in around 1805. It has blazed a trail as a modern gastropub, but boasts a pared down, dark-panelled interior that wouldn’t look out of place in a Jane Austen adaptation. Outback lies the prize: a secluded beer garden alive with vines, perfect for summer drinking. What’s more, it’s but a hop away from the glorious Royal Victoria park just over the road.
Signature fare
It’s part of the Bath Ales group, so don’t miss own brews such as the fruity Barnstormer (£2.65 a pint) or the organic Wild Hare (£2.85). From the menu, the chargrilled beef burger with chunky chips (£8.95) or the smoked trout fillet (£8.95) are surefire winners.
We love the landlord because …
Tim Wilkins is man with a conscience. The coffee is fair trade, food miles are minimal and profits from bottled water are ploughed back into developing countries.
Meet the locals
The well-heeled discuss the finer points of cask conditioning with students and workers.
Pub trivia
The nearby 23-hectare park, opened by an 11-year-old Princess Victoria in 1830, features hot-air balloon rides, botanical gardens and a vast children’s play area.
Published: 2009
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The Apple, Bristol
Why it makes the grade
Moored on a prime stretch of river in the heart of Bristol, this converted Dutch barge is an urban drinker’s elysium. Choose from the sun-friendly deck, quayside terrace or the hold, complete with creaking shiver-me-timbers atmosphere.
Signature fare
The clue’s in the name: this is cider central. Of the 29 varieties on offer, the medium-sweet Richs (£2.75 a pint) is a top-notch farmhouse scrumpy, or you can push the proverbial boat out with a bottle of Ashridge vintage brut champagne cider (£12). Chef is sticking to just one tried-and-tested number – the ploughman’s. Build your own from 28 ingredients (£5-8).
We love the landlord because …
He’s nice to the neighbours. Those seeking banging choons until 4am will be disappointed.
Meet the locals
Students (cheap drinks Mon-Wed), office workers and locals.
Pub trivia
Turn up at Bristol Temple Meads railway station and take a ferry downstream, getting off at Welsh Back. You’ll be steps away from apple nirvana.
Published: 2009
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The Oxford Retreat, Oxford
Mercifully free of tweed jackets and pictures of Morse, this new bar/restaurant offers a fresh take on Oxford’s rustic alehouse formula. It’s an ambitious punt — situated on the less trendy side of town — but keen-to-please staff and a low-key funkiness create a powerful draw. Inside is a cross between a boudoir and a nightclub: oak tables sport flickering candles and the bar is made of concrete, while there’s a good ciggie-friendly decked garden out back. Kick off with a toffee apple martini: a clean, caramel-scented combo of gin and butterscotch schnapps, before moving on to fruit-packed numbers such as apricot mash martinis or lemon and orange caiprioskas.The biggest boon is the food: chef Mark Harris offers invigorated pub classics such as herb-battered fish and chips and duck leg pasta, while his house burger — a thumping round of local beef served with chunky, double-blanched fries — is class in a bap.
Published: 2008
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Capital Cuisine, London
There’s a revolution a-rumbling and it’s happening on a veggie patch near you. Or on an organic smallholding. Or among a clutch of trestle tables on the corner. The city’s artisan producers are springing up faster than a field of flat cap mushrooms — encouraging us to re-connect with food in a way plastic microwavable slop never could. These places are feeding the mind as well as the stomach: try Wandsworth’s Ditto Deli for tastings or Shoreditch’s retro emporium, A Gold for a glimpse of how things used to be. And some, such as the revived Broadway Market are cracking that most resilient of London nuts — encouraging city-dwellers talk to their neighbours.
Choice cuts
“I think everybody is moving towards comfort food; reasonably priced, simple meals without the fuss of a fine-dining restaurant.”
Robert Aikens, operations manager at Tom’s Kitchen, Chelsea.
“Michelin stars are where you strive to be. Do I have an agent? No I haven’t! I’m from Kirby!”
Aiden Byrne, head chef at the Dorchester’s The Grill Room and the youngest chef ever to win a Michelin star (aged 22).
Published: 2008
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The Mansion, London
If Rimbaud’s ghost ever needed a haunt south of the river, this Gipsy Hill pub and dining room would be it. Formerly a spit-and-sawdust dive, a rococo makeover has swept in chandeliers, velvet chairs and sputtering candles, set against a gastropub backdrop of scrubbed tables and stripped floors. Sadly, the keen design eye overlooked the exterior — its towering black façade evoking Hermann Munster’s castle. The cocktail list combines the usual brambles and bellinis with more creative offerings: try the Caipirowska with muddled limes and Stolichnaya or the unpronounceable Cubanita Vietnamita — a killer combo of rum, lemongrass, passion fruit and Peychaud’s Bitters. Meanwhile, the British-Asian menu is well worth a stab: chef cooked for the Formula One team and does a good line in tasty stomach-fillers such as fish finger sarnies, meze and schnitzel. Add live jazz on Sundays and a decent garden and you’ve got a real find on your hands.
Published: 2007
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The Goose, Britwell Salome
An isolated hillock is an unlikely address for an upmarket pub restaurant, but this revamped inn easily justifies the trek. Michelin-starred Michael North and pink décor are out, with new owners bringing in honeyed oak tables, rich brown banquettes and an unfussy attitude to fine dining. Chef Matthew Tomkinson has built an ambitious British-French menu with some great touches: the French onion soup is spot on — a sweet, stocky base served with DIY pork rilette and gruyere — while the honey roast quail, although a smidgen underdone, melds well with mushrooms, celeriac and mustard remoulade. Mains are faultless: a crisp cube of Gloucester Old Spot pork belly is joined by parsnip shavings and star anise-spiced red cabbage, while the smoky Cornish brill is circumscribed by rich caviar sauce. To finish, go for the vanilla ice cream with its funky scimitar of apple and pull on the wellies for a country ramble.
Published: 2007
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Queans, Leamington Spa
Starched white tablecloths and muted decor suggest stuffy fine dining, but this new venture proves anything but. Chef/owner Laura Hamilton serves super-local modern British fare in an atmosphere that feels more like her home: she regularly dashes out of the kitchen to banter with diners and ply them with vast plates of fruit and cheese. Stand by for some inspired pairings: venison with marmalade, apricot with pumpkin and pork with whisky cream. For starters try the chunky pan-fried king prawns with sweet chilli and lemon and orange dressing, served on a springy bed of pea shoots, rocket and purple basil. The lamb tenderloin is a joy – light, pink-in-the-middle cuts with garlic and red onion couscous – reaching heights that the guinea fowl with spicy lentils and brandy gravy, although accomplished, just can’t quite muster. Finish with a homemade ice cream – there are 18 full-cream options – and crawl home on your hands and knees.
Published: 2007
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The Mill Race, Leeds
New chef Rob Black has upped the ante at this organic restaurant, crafting a menu chock-full of local produce such as Wensleydale tart, Swillington belly pork and Barnsley lamb chops. The black pudding, pork knuckle and poached egg – essentially a fry-up masquerading as a starter – makes a challenging but inspired intro, faring better than the spud-heavy smoked haddock and salmon fishcakes. For mains, try the slow-braised beef shin with roasted shallots and parsnip puree or the Jerusalem artichoke risotto – wholesome, well-executed dishes where a depth of flavour makes up for below-par presentation. It’s the puds where chef settles in the saddle: the caramel and vanilla panna cotta is a velvety confection, while the cheeseboard zips from Cornwall to Swaledale via top-notch brie, ewes milk, smoked and blue numbers. Just be sure to leave your design snobbery at the door – the interior has a ramshackle farmhouse feel and affords lovely views of the A65.
Published: 2007
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Due South, Brighton
On paper, this beachside restaurant couldn’t look more enticing: a few paces in your flip-flops from the shore, bags of seasonal Sussex produce, a spirited British wine list and plaudits from Zoe Ball and Fatboy Slim. Sadly, the experience just doesn’t quite live up to the hype. New head chef Roz Batty brings an experimental zeal, but the quirky British menu suffers both from over-complexity and below par execution. The pigs’ cheeks with honeyed parsnip and crackling salad make for a limp, stringy combination, while the pickled mackerel with rhubarb is a blubbery, unappetising jumble. The tide turns a little for the mains – the pan-fried sea bass with buttered sea beet is a simple, juicy combo, while the lemon sole and frugal salad boasts a delicate flavour. Saving graces include the ambiance – retro Hawaii Five-O tunes and an intimate vaulted interior – friendly staff and a good line in Bloody Marys.
Published: 2007
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Wheelwrights Arms, Monkton Combe
Formerly a knackered country pub, this inn is now a gleaming amalgam of exposed stone, bucolic paintings and retro pictures of village life. The refit has jettisoned the ‘pie and a pint’ crowd, and a brasserie-style offering is pulling in foodies, families and city types—no doubt also drawn by a good outside dining space and stunning views of the valley. Despite his impressive CV (London’s Hush and Rules) head chef Winston Hodelin has concocted a surprisingly safe menu bearing the likes of stuffed chicken breast and bangers and mash. The specials are more ambitious though: try the super-fresh, smoky starter of seared scallops with parsnip and pea purée. The Beef Wellington is accompanied by intense red wine shallots and tasty green beans, but let down by soggy pastry and lacklustre flavour. You’re on firmer ground with puds, the fig and almond tarte with crème fraîche delivering a confident finish.
Published: 2006
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The Hole in the Wall, Bath
Although a trailblazer under George Perry-Smith – inspiring Rick Stein and Keith Floyd to don their pinnies – this establishment has scaled few culinary peaks of late. Enter new owners touting modern British fare, and the glory days look set to return. Ingredients are resolutely locally sourced: rump of Chew Magna lamb, Gloucester beef and Denhay ham satiating the keenest West Country carnivore. Chef Mike Mills manages to wrap chunky flavours in French-style finesse. Ease yourself in gently with the grilled Devon oysters or confit of Gressingham duck leg with pickled cabbage and roast apple. Good mains include succulent roast partridge, pan-fried Cornish skate and a heart-warming root vegetable hot pot, while the chocolate and sweet chestnut tart makes a strong boot-filling finale. Service is refreshingly unfussy, while a refurb has created a modern, airy ambiance marred only by passé tunes. And at under a tenner, the set menu is a steal.
Published: 2006
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Sandy Park Inn, Chagford
Unreconstructed country pubs are an endangered species, but this inn flicks two fingers at the yawn-inducing gastro formula. Under new manager Nick Rout, the bar remains a proper moorland retreat with unapologetic green walls and a beaten up old piano. Farmers, professional characters and city types all rub along nicely, oiled by a good selection of Devon and Cornish brews. The menu promises unpretentious pub food majoring on local produce, and new chef Andy Burkin doesn’t disappoint. The sole with lemon and almond butter is a smoky, chunky number, while the braised lamb shank with minted jus just falls off the bone in juicy slabs. Even the beer battered cod elevates humble fish and chips thanks to a rare flaky freshness. For puds, try the rhubarb and raspberry frangipane with clotted cream—a clever spoon and fork ‘shadow’ stencilled in cocoa proving chef can’t resist just a little showboating.
Published: 2006
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The Fine Cheese Co., Bath
As clone sandwich shops threaten to take over the world, this Bath establishment is flying the flag for local artisan produce and good old-fashioned craftsmanship. The deli is a cheese addict’s dream—its 150 varieties range from a rich garlic-infused Sharpham Rustic to a blow-your-socks-off Cabrales blue—while a newly extended café serves British staples with a European flourish. Try the West Country BLT, featuring tasty Denhay bacon, or the crayfish tails with mayonnaise and cayenne pepper. The new patisserie is worth the trip alone: chef Steve Piercy trained in Paris, and recently trailed the city in search of top recipes. The result is a delicate range of savoury shortcrust and puff pastry numbers, plus Italian sponges, Parisian macaroons and chocolate and almond tortes, all made on the premises. Even the ominously named prune and Armagnac tart, served with organic clotted cream, proves a winner. Gluten-free options too.
Published: 2006
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Fawsley Hall, Northamptonshire
A favourite haunt of Queen Elizabeth I, this Tudor country house hotel boasts vast fireplaces, Capability Brown-designed gardens and a stunning great hall. Fortunately, chef Phil Dixon holds his own amid such imposing surroundings, and new menus usher in a relaxed simplicity. The fare is essentially country pursuits with a twist: a terrine of foie gras with quails eggs makes a good intro, as do the pan fried scallops, balanced by a subtle apple and ginger puree. Come the mains you feel like saddling up your own hunting horse: try the Balmoral venison, or the intense slabs of veal on a bed of buttered spinach. Meanwhile, the red mullet gets an oriental-style treatment, proving a successful foray beyond rich British fare. To finish, chocoholics should go for the trio of torte, bombe and sorbet, while the exotic fruit trifle is the only faltering step, frothing with a gritty coconut foam.
Published: 2006
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Deanes Deli, Belfast
This New York-style eaterie could so easily be all sizzle and no sausage. But beyond the over-designed cutlery and flamboyant media set clientele is damn fine cooking, plain and simple. It’s owned by the Michelin-starred Michael Deane, but new head chef Kieron Donnelly has made the menu his own with a mix of Mediterranean and retro British dishes, re-engineering the likes of toad in the hole, crostini, braised lamb shank and breaded squid with haute cuisine flair. For starters, try the wigwam of chicken satay skewers or the gravadlax and cucumber salad — a crunchy, gravity-defying tower balanced by squiggle of tart lemon dressing. For mains, the chicken liver and foie gras parfait is faultless, its richness offset by a fig compote and ballast provided by chunky toast. The affogato is the only way to finish — a pokey Amaretto digestif, ice cream pud and espresso all rolled into one.
Published: 2006
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Blackstones’ Kitchen, Bath
A ‘gourmet takeaway’ may sound something of an oxymoron, but husband and wife team Daniel and Rebecca Blackstone pull it off in style. Situated just yards from Bath’s main drag, this new venture serves up fine dining fare minus the bowing and scraping and hefty price tags. Blackboards bristle with seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, while a central table is laden with brownies, chocolate cherry trifles, ricotta lemon cake and fruit for the virtuous. Griddles sit just feet from punters, so you’ll see your organic beef burger or Wiltshire bacon sizzle before your eyes. The real steals are the mains, with the likes of Asian spiced roast lamb with plum sauce or crisp chicken salad with grapefruit, pistachio nuts and a minty yoghurt dressing going for less than four English pounds. Vegetarian and wheat-free options are in abundance too: try the zingy sweetcorn chowder with salsa or the Tunisian vegetable stew.
Published: 2006
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The Pear Tree Inn, Whitley
Part rural local, part breezy restaurant, this establishment is the stuff of city dwellers’ dreams. Punters are treated to half-timbered interiors and neat landscaped gardens, while new head chef Kevin Chandler has wisely ditched an Italian-orientated menu in favour of local and seasonal ingredients. Fresh from Ramsay’s Maze, Kevin has acquired a great deal of the touch but little of the effing and blinding of his former boss. The goat’s cheese salad makes a busy but refreshing opener, brimming with horseradish roast beetroot, beans and crunchy peas, while the Cornish crab and avocado is paired with chilli and lime. The lamb is nothing short of a triumph, comprising succulent rump, intense sweetbread and braised shoulder, and the skate wing is elevated by capers, lemon and meat juices – a dish marred only by Day-Glo green parsley mash.
Published: 2006
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Blackstones, Bath
This new restaurant fills a barn-sized hole in Bath’s culinary repertoire: ballsy home cooking served in an unfussy yet trendy setting. By day, gourmet comfort food abounds, from full-on fry-ups and honeyed porridge to tasty Tuscan bean soup. But by night, Rebecca Blackstone produces the kind of dinner party dishes we all fantasise about, if only we boasted the chef’s Leith training. For openers, the seared scallops, pancetta, pea puree and mint oil is a clever match of succulent bivalve and crunchy veg, while the risotto boasts a larder-full of courgettes, yellow peppers, broad beans and gooey Gruyère. For mains, try the slow roast lamb with pear and date chutney – a Moroccan-style mound of sweet and savoury. Finish with the fruit cobbler, with its light carapace of crumbed scones. The only downside: salmon pink formica tables create a funky daytime ambiance, but evening dining calls for a softer design touch.
Published: 2006
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The Drewe Arms, Drewsteignton
Under Mabel Mudge, who pulled pints here for 75 years, this moorland pub boasted a settle-lined snug, beer straight from the cask and a wooden box for a till. New arrivals Paul Bodsworth and Fiona Newton have stuck to the rustic formula, but raise the bar with a fine dining menu. Chef Kevin Lake has introduced “local and seasonal” whistles and bells, but shakes it up with throwbacks such as black spuds and West Country junket. The Dartmouth halibut with horseradish is perky and fresh, while the smoked duck is paired well with char-roasted artichokes and lavender rice. Mains are of similar quality, although presentation slips: the langoustine is a car crash of salad, rosemary and lemon slithers, and the tender lamb rump, served with an excellent peppery sweet jus, is laced with stringy beetroot strands. Don’t miss the Princetown Jail Ale.
Published: 2006
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Mourne Seafood Bar, Dundrum
With a marine biologist at the helm and its own shellfish beds, this new seafood restaurant is at least a yardarm ahead of the competition. Husband and wife team Joanne and Bob McCoubrey have carved a unselfconscious, lively establishment out of an old hotel, found at the foot of the Mourne Mountains — Northern Ireland’s highest peaks. The interior is all chocolate brown panelling and nautical maps, while dishes are simple and uncluttered. The approach works well with the Cullen Skink soup — a rich concoction of cream and smoked haddock – and the meaty whole seabass, its skin crisped with chilli. The formula founders with the seafood chowder however, a tasteless affair with all the charisma of an old sou’wester. If in doubt, stick to the oysters — you’ve a choice of juicy au naturel, grilled with cheese and bacon, Rockefeller, Fitzpatrick and, if you really must, battered. Skip pud and go for generous cheeseboard.
Published: 2006
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Jeffers, Bangor
It’s mustered many a fine bag of chips, but this Northern Irish seaside town has long been a stranger to fine dining. Enter Stephen Jeffers’ latest venture and local foodies at last have a place to dip their soda bread. The brasserie-style menu is self-assured. For starters, try goat’s cheese fritters with spicy aubergine chutney, or piquilla soup – a dollop of pesto and prawns delivering a flash of colour. For mains, duck confit is perfectly crisp; squash, roast chestnuts and cider providing a sweet, though sparse, foundation. Chef scores on seafood: the fish stew swims with prawns, while skate, salmon and mussels jostle in a spiced base. To finish – a quality Fairtrade espresso.
Published: 2006
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The Old Butchers, Stow-on-the-Wold
Although AA Gill’s “worst place in the world” critique was first class tripe, few could claim this Cotswold town was a vibrant culinary hub. While the cream tea guzzling pensioner is well catered for, anyone with their own teeth has to hunt hard for gustatory satisfaction. Gloriously, this Egon Ronay-starred new venture rises above the baguettes and fudge. Peter Robinson’s menu is essentially new British, with forays into France, Spain and Italy. He pulls off a mean brandade – a smooth confection of cod, milk and garlic, crowned by a poached egg – and you’d hock your granny’s best teapot for the grilled marinated quail with pomegranates. For mains, try the roast pork belly with fennel and quince aïoli or the plump duck breast.
Published: 2006
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The Old Passage Inn, Arlingham
This award-winning seafood restaurant is shellfish HQ: well-stocked tanks teem with lobster, mussels and clams, while scallops and crab are shipped in from Cornwall. Although a makeover has left its toothpaste green interior and incongruous columns intact, the establishment now boasts an airy private dining space, and views of a tranquil river Severn make up for such oddball design. The indecisive should go for the fruits de mer – an ocean on a plate of fat oysters, langoustine, North Atlantic prawns and brown shrimps. But where chef Patrick Le Mesurier excels at clean and simple fare, his Dover sole suffers from an overenthusiastic dousing of nut-brown butter. For pudding and cheese, try the vanilla crème caramel or the steadying Quicke’s goat’s milk cheddar.
Published: 2006
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Halo, Dublin
Designer John Rocha has revamped this upmarket hotel restaurant, while new chef Richard Wilson wheels in a fusion menu awash with Irish ingredients. The refit is over-busy (all embroidered seats and vast mirrors), but the chutzpah is matched by such quirky delights as Cooleeney fondue with lavender, smoked salmon on Guinness bread and beetroot pasta. Beyond the playfulness lies a deft touch: the duck breast is a sweet, serrated strata on a bed of celeriac and apple and potato rosti, and the neat parcel of pork belly owes its succulence to a good dousing of cider.
Published: 2006
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Oxford Street Brasserie, Harrogate
Despite the fishbowl ambiance – two walls are floor-to-ceiling glass – this new eatery makes a strong addition to the Yorkshire dining scene. Chef Dave Robson runs an inspired ship, reinvigorating traditional English dishes with French flair. For starters, the ham hock terrine and onion marmalade makes a bittersweet pairing, while the springy endive salad with bacon lardons boasts a “just snipped from the garden” freshness. Chef worked alongside Michelin-starred Jeff Baker, and the fastidiousness shines through with the mains: the delicately braised pork belly sports a crispy upper tier of crackling, offset by moist sage and onion dumplings and fine beans, and a marbled slab of tuna gets a pak choi makeover, producing a light tangy concoction doused in truffled honey vinaigrette. Sadly, the peach trifle is suffocated by mounds of gooey cream.
Published: 2006
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Onefishtwofish, Bath
An establishment named after an acid-fried Dr Seuss tale is never going to serve up conventional fare. Situated in a Georgian coalbunker, this restaurant’s exposed stone arches and rather tired decor belie a refreshingly irreverent menu proffering the likes of fat Bourgogne snails and gin and tonic jelly. A minimalist trio of cured conga eel, tuna and gravadlax makes for a tantalising intro, equalled by a wild mushroom salad with delicate honey-glazed shallots. But it’s the mains where chef Paul Greenhead really gets into his stride. His bouillabaisse brims with enough tuna, Roquefort cheese, squid and stock to satiate a boatload of Cornish fishermen, while the chunky skate wing with chilli and lime butter proves a subtle combination. As for puddings, go for the rhubarb tartlet with rosemary custard, a suitably bonkers finale.
Published: 2006
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Hudson Bar & Grill, Bath
The bohos of Bath are revolting. Formerly the Hat And Feather – a shabby refuge for skunk peddlers and grungy types – this bar now boasts soft leather sofas, Victorian fireplaces and a noodling jazz duo at weekends. The die-hards have grumpily made way for a young professional crowd. The interior draws its inspiration from nearby Babington House – mixing stripped down period pieces with quirky modern elements such as wood panelling and artisan copper lamps. It’s a slick formula, slightly marred by a TV screen showing Rat Pack footage. The solid cocktail list (they mix a mean caipirinha) is served by staff who recognise that some of us want a drink and not a piece of performance art. And while the “grill” is upstairs, you can enjoy the entire menu – including chunky organic steaks – from the comfort of the bar.
Published: 2005
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